The start of this journey, could have seen it ending badly. I left the hotel Ange and I had been staying in, and we found a "taxi". It had all the signs of a taxi, until you got in, and the driver attempted to start the car and put it into gear. With a look of fear on my face, I looked out the window at Ange and mouthed "I love you" fearing I may never see her again. I then faced the longest 20 minutes of my life as I was taken to the Cairo railway station. What an experience. The driver offered to drive me to Alexandria a couple of times, saying he'd do it for 300LE. I quite politely thanked him and declined. God, could you imagine the horror. Three hours in the back of a car that stunk equally of petrol and tobacco, had no air con and no suspension.
Once aboard the train, a little boy, about four maybe, came on with his parents and stopped still. He stared at me in open amazment. The parents smiled at me, and pushed him into the nearby seats. The little boy was having none of the sitting still business - much like most kids his age. His intent though was different. He came over to me, placed his little hand on my arm and started stroking me like a cat. I may have been the first white woman he'd ever seen close up. After that, he got shy, and ran to his mother.
Part of me wanted this to be the ultimate part of the journey. A place both Egyptian and Roman, located on the Mediterranean. It almost was. I don't know what was missing, but it was something.
When I arrived at the hotel, I sent this email to family and friends;
On 27/09/2010, at 3:11 PM, Brooke S wrote:
Alexandria
Oh my god you guys!! I wish you could experience this with me. The salt air, the virtually clean streets, the splendour of this hotel. Egypt tourism gives it 4 stars and from what I've seen, it's totally worth it.
There was a moment this morning as I got in the taxi where I feared you may have heard the last of me. Thankfully not.
Arrived at the train station alive but couldn't see it. There are sheets hanging over all the awnings. Got inside, and found an "English" Information booth and was advised to wait on platform 8. Within minutes the train pulled up. I have never seen such a long train or platform. 2 and a bit hours later I was bundled off the train, onto a half completed platform that smelt of urine. Ten feet later, about 6 taxi drivers swooped on me. 15 minutes later we pulled up out the front of a grand building, built in 1906.
The foyer, as I walked in had Frank Sinatra playing. There is a chandelier in the middle of the room. There are gold gilt edges, and marble, and carpet and people wearing suits as uniforms. The original elevator still works, there are mirrors everywhere. I was shown to my room by a lady who opened the door and the curtains and turned the aircon on. A bell-hop brought my luggage up. There is a kingsize bed. The bathroom has complimentary shampoo, conditioner, and body scrub. The toilet has a hygiene label.And yes, I did take a photo. My view is exactly what the internet shows.
This internet is free!! but the keyboard is shit.
I'm going to find food and a map now.
B
And I wrote this email for these reasons...
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| The view from my balcony |
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| Same balcony, opposite direction |
Having deposited my suitcase in the room, I had a quick wander around the hotel, and headed off in search of lunch. I found a little place a couple of blocks away that were doing an Egyptian version of pizza. I was going to take a picture but it wasn't it very good condition by the time I got home cause the toppings fell off. It was amazing though to watch the guys swinging the bases around their heads making them bigger and bigger and cutting them off as they reached the perfect size.
Inside the hotel, aptly named Windsor Palace, looks like this...
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| Night time... |
The first day here I was lazy. I let myself rest in the glory of to cold aircon.
On my first full day, I went up to the dining room where the included breakfast was being held. So much fresh fruit and cereal and real coffee (not the mud I'd paid for the day before). After breakfast I headed downstairs, out the front door and turned right. It will not be a surprise to those who know me that I was headed for the Bibliotheca Alexandrina. An amazing site. The curator in me, is so impressed with what the Egyptians have done with this site. It is amazing and huge.
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| Heiroglyphs around the outer wall |
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| Alexander |
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| There are about 4 or 5 levels inside. This is from the second looking up. All along the levels are computer bays for anyone to use. |
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| "Knowledge" |
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| Looking down one of the rows of stacks |
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| Glass and resin light |
On the walk back I did come across some strange looking wedding cakes...
I also came across a church of St Mary's. It was closed though, and the tourist police wouldn't let me in to have a look around. I think the only English they had was 'no service, no enter'.
The next morning, I was up and ready to go quite early. I didn't want to miss my train, and I also didn't want to see one of the hotel managers. The evening before, I had gone up to the restaurant for dinner and he was all charm and very helpful. As I went to leave though, he made it quite difficult. He wanted me to stay for the musical entertainment that was being set up on the balcony. He wanted to offer me a free desert. He wanted to offer me all my meals for free if he could come to my room when he finished his shift. That's right. You read correctly. I got propositioned. By this point, I was so freaked out I bolted the door to my room, I put the chain across, and then I put one of the chairs under the handle. Not one of the more pleasant aspects of the trip.
Made it alive to the train station and was met with another frustration. Very few of the staff spoke English, and I kept getting sent back and forth across the ticket floor trying to buy a ticket. I was so hot and agitated I could feel the tantrum building. It was at this point I was rescued by an Egyptian man heading to Cairo. He was able to ask the ticket seller for the right ticket and show me where I had to get the train from. Just as I was starting to wonder if it would get awkward his phone rang, he moved off a ways down the platform, answered the call and that was the last I spoke with him.
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| Taken from the moving train... |
In the end, I made it back to Cairo. The trip back took longer than planned, but unsurprisingly, there was a taxi waiting for me at the door, who conveyed me to the Cairo airport. Another life before your eyes drive later, I was in the terminal, my baggage was being scanned and I was through to the waiting area. A two hour delay later, I was on the plane, winging it back to London.
I had no difficulty getting back into the UK. The strangest thing was being able to put toilet paper in the bowl and flush it, followed by how quiet it was once I got off the train at Turnpike Lane to walk home. I know. Quiet. But after the noise and the honking of horns that I had been used to for the last month on and off, the city was still.
I had a fabulous time on the tour. I'm glad I did it when we did, given what is going on now. I will go back one day. I loved Jordan. It was a beautiful place. Who knows. Maybe I'll even get to Israel one day. I won't tell you till I'm back.
